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This article first appeared in The National Catholic Register

The Hand of St Etheldreda

By Dwight Longenecker

Cardinal Newman wrote, “to be deep in history is to cease to be Protestant.”  If you live in England, as we do, it is almost impossible not to be deep in history.  So, for instance, when I go to the bank in our local town I walk past a building with a plaque on the outside wall. The plaque tells me that King Alfred the Great had a hunting lodge stood on that site. Across the road stands a Tudor town hall and a medieval parish church.  The evidence of ecclesiastical history is abundant and vivid here. When you look at local maps you find the countryside is dotted with the ruins of old convents and monasteries. Everywhere “the bare ruined choirs” stand as a stark testimony to the ravages of the Reformation.

Not all the monasteries and convents were destroyed.  We often take visitors to a nearby called Laycock. At the edge of the village is Laycock Abbey.  It was once a convent of Augustinian nuns, but in the sixteenth century Henry VIII pensioned off the nuns, took the land and the buildings and gave it to one of his cronies, who then tore down the church and remodelled the convent buildings to suit himself. It is still called Laycock Abbey, but for hundreds of years is has been an English gentleman’s country mansion.

When I moved to England and became an Anglican, I was taught that Henry VIII simply reformed the Catholic Church. “We are still Catholic,” some Anglicans are fond of saying, “we’re just reformed Catholics.”  It wasn’t until I visited Poland and heard about the sufferings of the church under the Communist regime that I began to see the “reform” of the English church in a different light.  In fact, under Henry VIII and his successors the English exercised the most systematic, ruthless, efficient and long-standing persecution of the Catholic Church in Europe.

Part of our family’s Christmas pilgrimage to relatives included a visit to the historic city of Ely where my sister’s husband is an Anglican minister. In the center of the town is the magnificent Ely Cathedral. Before the Reformation it was the Abbey Church of a great Benedictine monastery.  It also held the shrine of St Etheldreda—a seventh century Anglo-Saxon princess who gave up her royal life to found a monastery for men and women on what was then an isolated and swampy island.

Etheldreda died of a tumor in the year 630. But when her body was exhumed the tumor was gone and the body (despite the damp climate and swampy conditions) was found to be incorrupt. Her relics were preserved, and she became one of the most important saints of the medieval English church. Her shrine attracted pilgrims from all over Europe and a great Benedictine Abbey grew up in Ely. At the Reformation the monastery was dissolved and the buildings torn down.  Etheldreda’s shrine was demolished, her still incorrupt body was destroyed and the Abbey church became the Cathedral of the new Anglican diocese.

A visit to Ely is a history lesson in stone.  The Benedictine Abbey Church is now an Anglican cathedral. The remains of the monastic buildings now house the bishop, dean and cathedral canons in considerable comfort. For centuries there was no a Catholic Church in Ely.  Then in the mid-nineteenth century English Catholics were once more given freedom.  Plans were made to build a little Catholic Church in Ely.  As plans became known, a nun in Staffordshire said she had a precious relic of St Etheldreda.  Although the Protestants had destroyed the incorrupt body, the saint’s hand had survived.  During the penal times the relic was discovered in a priest’s hiding hole in Sussex.  Eventually it came into the possession of the nun in Staffordshire who offered to return it to Ely.

You can see St Etheldreda’s hand to this day in the little Catholic Church in Ely. There is a story that some years ago the Queen was visiting the Cathedral.  After the service it was planned for her to meet the ecumenical party.  The Catholic parish priest at the time was a crusty old Irishman.  As the Queen shook his hand she said, “Don’t you think it would be a lovely gesture to return the hand of St Etheldreda to the Cathedral?” He replied, “and don’t you think it would be a lovely gesture to return the Cathedral to the Catholic Church?”

The Anglican occupation of Ely cathedral and the humble little Catholic Church illustrates the situation of Catholics in England. When I contemplate the situation I can’t help feeling angry.  I’m therefore all the more impressed with the attitude of English Catholics. They are usually cheerful and positive about the future. They rarely mention the historic grievances against the Anglican authorities. They do not look back in anger, but manifest a kind of practical everyday forgiveness in the face of 450 years of persecution. They wear their degraded position as a mark of authenticity. Voltaire said, “If you want to destroy the Catholic Church give it money and power.” Maybe losing all that money and power at the Reformation was one of the best things that happened to the Catholic Church. Maybe that’s part of the pruning process the gospel speaks about. If so, then that perhaps that helps to account for the durability of the Catholic faith.

When you see Saint Etheldreda’s hand it is clasped in a fist, as if she is holding on to something precious. The relic, like the little Catholic Church in the back streets of Ely, is a symbol that tyrants and corruption cannot destroy the Catholic Church. We’re like weeds. We keep coming back.

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